Early morning at the airport, a forgetful travel companion, and an extreme special forces Ghibli journey
When I grabbed the tickets a few months in advance, I already knew this Tokyo trip was going to be a bit crazy. Joe Hisaishi × Royal Philharmonic Orchestra 2025 Special Tour Ghibli Studio Movie Concert, with the final leg at the Tokyo Dome. It was a rare opportunity, but the schedule was insanely tight, so I bit the bullet and decided to give it my all — as a result, I hardly slept the entire way, exhausted to the point of soul departure, but also immensely happy.
Meeting a “kindred spirit” even before departure
While picking up my tickets, a girl suddenly approached me. "Do you need to print out the electronic visa?" Her voice was unsure. I shook my head and said no, she immediately heaved a sigh of relief and then opened up: "I came from Hangzhou, and today has been utterly crazy!" She counted on her fingers: took the subway in the wrong direction, accidentally took the bullet train to Wuxi, struggled to get to Hongqiao, then found out her flight departed from Pudong Airport. "I almost cried standing in the subway station," she laughed, "in the end, I had to take a taxi and rush here." I listened and laughed as she animatedly recounted her unlucky day—what would be miserable was somehow hilarious coming from her mouth. "Are you also on this flight? Want to go together? I’ll wait for you." She suddenly offered. I was a bit surprised but thought having company on the way wouldn’t be bad. She chatted non-stop, saying she was a super forgetful person but had a great attitude. Listening to her made the otherwise tense boarding process suddenly feel relaxed. The plane took off while it was still dark. I leaned against the window, watching the lights of Shanghai grow smaller and smaller below. I suddenly felt like this trip was off to a good start.
Arriving in Tokyo at dawn, heading straight to the Ghibli Museum
I didn’t sleep well on the plane, landed at 5 a.m., eyelids heavy with fatigue, but still rushed to meet up with Kiki. After a brief rest, we headed straight to the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka. Every visit brings new discoveries: the Totoro ticket booth, the robot from Laputa, and those little Easter eggs hidden in corners, like secret messages from Hayao Miyazaki to fans. The entrance’s Totoro ticket booth, the studio replica on the second floor, and the robot statue on the rooftop. My favorite spot was the small screening room playing an unreleased short animation. Kiki whispered, "The films they show change every time. With good luck, you can catch something very special." We bought lots and lots of merchandise.
Joe Hisaishi’s concert, giving me goosebumps
When we arrived at the Tokyo Dome, a long queue had already formed outside. My hands were sweaty by the time I found my seat. Joe Hisaishi’s concert was the highlight of the trip. As the lights brightened, Joe Hisaishi took the stage to applause. “Spirited Away,” “Princess Mononoke,” “Howl’s Moving Castle”… as the familiar melodies began, the audience fell into a quiet silence except for the sound of breathing. The most stunning moment was the “Princess Mononoke” piece; the orchestra's powerful performance overwhelmed me—I closed my eyes, feeling completely immersed in the music.
Isao Takahata exhibition and curry rice
After the concert, I went with some friends to the Isao Takahata exhibition. I only knew he was an important figure in Ghibli, but the exhibition detailed how he painstakingly shaped works like “The Tale of the Princess Kaguya” and “Grave of the Fireflies.” The exhibition showed the production process of “The Tale of the Princess Kaguya.” Those smooth, natural ink-wash animation scenes were reworked frame by frame dozens of times. One section displayed storyboards filled with dense annotations. Finishing the exhibit, I felt moved; behind each beautiful frame was countless revisions and restarts. I was starving after leaving, so I ate curry rice at the exhibition’s themed store. Japanese curry is quite different from domestic styles—richer and slightly sweet—and after eating it, I felt completely revived.
37 hours without sleep, my mind completely offline
There was another concert that night, but by then, I had gone 37 hours without sleep. While Kiki and friends took photos outside the dome, my mind was totally foggy. Afterward, I went back to the hotel with Kiki, too hungry to resist ramen, then crashed immediately after eating.
Day two: Porco Rosso’s plane and pilgrimage
I was woke up the next day by Kiki’s alarm. He was going to pick up some “Hear the Sound of the Waves” merchandise, and we agreed to meet at Terada Warehouse at noon. I slept in, then opened the curtains to find a sunny day. On my way to the warehouse, I passed a bakery and bought a freshly baked pineapple bun for breakfast. I went directly to Terada Warehouse where Kiki was checking out the Ghibli 3D figurine exhibition. The exhibition exceeded my expectations. Kiki walked me through the entire history of Ghibli’s development, explaining their release history in both Western and Asian markets. The highlight was the life-size Porco Rosso plane, the SAVOIA S-21, its metal body gleaming as if ready to take off. Standing in front of it, I felt like I had stepped right into the movie. I circled it several times, photographing from every angle. “Do you want to go to Shinjuku Gyoen?” I asked him. “I want to see the pavilion from ‘The Garden of Words.’”
That afternoon, I went alone to Shinjuku Gyoen, which was even lusher than I remembered. The bleak winter scenes from my last visit had been replaced by vibrant greenery everywhere. Comparing the movie scenes on my phone, I found that famous pavilion. Seeing it in person was like instant nostalgia from “The Garden of Words.” Sitting in the pavilion, though it wasn’t raining, it felt like I could hear the movie’s dialogue as I rested on the bench.
The last stop in Shibuya: “Hear the Sound of the Waves” and grilled beef
That evening, I met up with Kiki in Shibuya to watch “Hear the Sound of the Waves.” It’s an older Ghibli film about a high school student’s secret crush. Not very popular, but very delicate and touching, making me reflect on the missed moments of youth. The theater was not crowded, mostly fans like us. After the movie, it was nearly 10 p.m., and we found a yakiniku restaurant. The wagyu sizzled on the grill as the marbled fat melted away. I said this was the most satisfying meal of the trip. Kiki said, “Next time when we come, who knows when that will be.” I nodded, but inside I knew that a trip like this, even once, is enough to remember for a long time.
The journey home
The dawn at Haneda Airport gently cast light over the runway. As the plane took off, I flipped through photos from the past two days: the concert tickets, the heroic Porco Rosso plane, the greenery of Shinjuku Gyoen, and that late-night bowl of instant noodles. Each photo carried a unique memory. When Joe Hisaishi’s melodies played again in my mind, I knew this sleepless journey had already become my most precious memory.
Travel is like this, no matter how well planned, surprises always happen. Like the forgetful girl I met at the airport, the near-overslept morning, or the exhibition I decided to visit last minute… but these “unplanned” moments actually make the memories more vivid.
I don’t know when I’ll go to Tokyo again, but at least this time, I have no regrets.：